There is nothing quite like the feeling of getting a good ride out of a wave.
We have all felt that unequivocal happiness of having everything click and you get a sensational ride. For all the bad times: crowds, coldness, falls. That one special one you get every once in a while makes it all worth it. Feeling the power of the wave beneath your board is a connection that you rarely get.
Seeing that little blip on the horizon puts a leap in your heart, you hope that no one else saw it as you slowly start paddling out to put yourself in line for it. Your heart starts pumping faster as the wave gets bigger, you spin around and quickly start paddling to catch this pearl. Your heart jumps to your throat when you start dropping in, you bottom turn and look down the line to see that this is going to be long, special ride. With that first top turn you feel the exhilaration running through your system; it’s just you and the wave, no other worries or fears in mind. All of your problems are left on the beach; the ocean requires your concentration. Walking up to the nose asks that you know your board and the wave, you take a couple steps and time slows down. A couple steps back, another turn or two, and your ride is over. Within a period of 15 maybe 30 seconds, you have been genuinely happy. Its what keeps you coming back, its what keeps the stoke alive.