Instagram: @alex__swanson

Monday, November 30, 2009

Hardcore rules

Blog readers

Dear blog readers,
I have been a little subpar with my photo credits,
I will do my best to give credit where credit is deserved.

Sunday, November 29, 2009


I noticed that a picture of Tasha looked uncannily like Barry Mcgee, one of the artists from RVCA... kinda.

Photo Credit: RVCA

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Punker Pat

I found this picture of Pat Towersey at 56th during the Fire swell in 2007.

Photo Credit: unknown, off of RVCA site



I found this picture of my Dad at Malibu in the summer of 1972...

San Onofre

The Friday after Thanksgiving, Me, Erica, Sam, Trevor, Cody, Ashley, Aimi, and my siblings; Tasha and Greg, all headed down to San Onofre. We only had one pass so we had to park one car at Trestles and drive two shipments of people and boards to San O. After being yelled at by an Edison security guard, leaving a board at the beach (which we remembered as we were driving out), and alot of people being run over in the water, it ended up being a great day.

Friday, November 27, 2009

Me and Erica

After my MMA fight at Thalia

Pictures from Minnesota and South Dakota

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Fin covers

I thought about this concept a week ago after constantly dinging my fins in my room. So I tore apart my old Mutant and sewed two pieces together to make a fin cover. It takes about 30-40 min, depending if you have the material already. You just draw and outline of your fin, cut, and sew together! Super easy, and fun. Here is what you need and the end product on my 9'5 Gato flex fin. This is just the first one, so its a little messed up.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Eat Sh*t

Photo Credit: Council of Doom

Big G

Greg, once again, blew my mind with some of his black and white photos. Here are two of them: Nate Adams, fins first, and Trevor.

Richard Kenvin

Richard Kenvin is one of the most under appreciated, stylish, and influential surfers of our time. He lives right here in San Diego, constantly perfecting the art of wave sliding. He rides Carl Ekstroms Asymetrical boards, Mini and regular Simmons board at Big Rock and La Jolla. He keeps pushing the limits of the imagination of board design. Humble, quiet, and powerful, this is Richard Kenvin.

TSJ | POV - "Richard Kenvin behind the polyester curtain" from The Surfer's Journal on Vimeo.

Photo Credit: Google, John Cherry Woodcraft


Photo Credit: Nolan Hall

Monday, November 23, 2009

Deanna Templeton

Deanna Templeton, wife of Ed Templeton (from Toy Machine and RVCA fame), is one accomplished photographer. She travels with Ed to different places around the world, snapped portraits of people that she meets on her travels. She truly does capture the uniqueness of the human spirit in her photographs.

Photo Credit: Deanna Templeton

Where do blogs fit into all of this?

Alex Kopps

Picture Credit: sniphold cihtog

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Make Moon/Dolphin City

Mike Doyle

I had heard about this guy; one of the progressive surfers that was forgotten over the years. From what I've pulled up from the internet and my Dad who was around the surfing world in the late 60's/ early 70's, I've learned this:
"Yeah, I remember him. He was world champ or something like that at one time...tall,
blond, lanky, had a surfboard line named after him." (Kim Swanson). Mike Doyle won the 1970 world championships in Peru. "A well-respected art critic once called me a Primitivist. I think that's an appropriate term for my art. I use my intuition and create spontaneously. Sometimes a mistake will become my theme and the painting flows from there. It's similar to a jazz musician moving into another phrase and spontaneously creating as he improvises. Also, the very atmosphere of being at land's end keeps me energized and able to create." Said Doyle in his interview with the Surf Museum.

Mike Doyle at Pacific Beach

Photo Credit: Surf Museum

"I feel it's something you can only get better at. Everything else I do, surfing, or golfing, may go downhill as I grow older. From a physical perspective, my painting won't be affected by slowing reflexes, and as I accumulate more experiences over time, that wisdom will show through in my work."
-Mike Doyle


I got this picture of Ashley going up the Young hill at our school about a week ago from my friends digital Rebel xti. Pretty excited on how it turned out.

The Drifter

Me, Erica, Tasha, Cody, and Caitlin, all went to the Patagonia store in Cardiff to see The Drifter with Rob Machado. It was a really nice movie, there were about 700 people that showed up to watch it in the back of the store. At the end, Rob Machado and John Swift accompanied the Bonus Features with some live acoustic playing.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Skimming is for people who can't surf

He was weird before weird was cool

My brother, Edward

Thursday, November 19, 2009

I love cats


I finally uploaded some polaroids that I've been taking over the past several months... Here's what I have so far.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009


Dear blog readers,
I'm not sure who some of you are,
but I do know that I offended one, or two of you.
I just want to say that, please dont take my blog seriously.
The posts are what I find is funny at the time.
Some are not as tasteful as others.
I enjoy surfing as much as the next guy, and have respect for everyone out in the water.
This is just a blog. Nothing more.
Only thoughts from a dumb 19 yr old kid.


Tuesday, November 17, 2009

What surfing means to me

Surfing is having a good time
Surfing is riding whatever you enjoy riding (except wave storms, they're dumb)
Surfing is getting stoked on every ride
Surfing is waking up early to charge 2 ft Blackies
Surfing is not taking yourself too seriously
Surfing is whatever you make of it
Surfing is a way to "get happy"
Surfing is more of a recreational activity than sport
Surfing is really really fun

Completely Straight

San Clemente/ Sacred Craft

Hippies Never Die

Photo Credit:

Monday, November 16, 2009

Joel Tudor

Photo Credit: Google

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Point Concept Hull

I tested rode my hull this weekend. The board was amazing. Me and Erica drove up to Long Beach on Saturday to pick it up from Ryan Lovelace at Shelter Surf Shop. He is one of the coolest, mellowest, and just plain nicest guys I have ever met. He knew every little thing about how a Hull worked/functioned. I rode the Dreadnought at Cardiff on Sunday and had a super fun session; the board picked up when it needed to. So amped on the board, cannot wait for the next session. On a sadder note, I f*cked up my log on the rocks at Sunset Cliffs :'(. Big hole punched in the bottom, out of commission till Thanksgiving.