Erica and I decided to head up to La Jolla in between classes today, first mistake.
We pulled up to the beach and it looked really fun! Mostly big and stormy, and I really wanted to take out Ryans FishHull.
I put on my suit, and paddled out as fast as I could. I could immediately tell that it was really powerful.
I dropped in on my first one, to get the heebeejeebies out... It felt fine, and I paddled out for some more.
That didn't go over too well.
As soon as I ducked dove under the first one, the leash string got sucked out of the board, and I had to swim frantically for it.
Seeing the sets line up the back, I decided to head back in to fix the leash. BAD IDEA.
The next couple of minutes literally felt like hell. I have never been so scared of dying in my life.
I held on to the board as long as I could, but when an overhead shorebreak wave doubled up in like 2 feet of water, I threw the board over and tried to swim underneath the massive whitewash.
I managed to get in knee deep water and ran faster than I've ever run to the sand. The board didn't fare as well.
I saw it sitting on some rocks, but by the time I got to it, a giant wave slammed its nose into the rocks :(
I'm really sorry Ryan for breaking your special board... I hate breaking things, ESPECIALLY when it's not my stuff.
Anyways, I hoped you enjoyed my saga. Yup, I'm a b*tch.