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Sunday, July 26, 2009

San O seshorama

July 26th: 5:45 am. Wake up to my alarm clock
5:46 am. Go back to sleep
5:55 am. Trevor calls, says he's outside my house. Dammit.
6:00 am. Load up the boards and head out to San O
6:05 am. Pray that the "one in-one out" rule hasn't applied yet
6:30 am. In the water with our wetsuits
7:30 am. Exit the water, more wet with sweat than water
8:00 am. Change into boardshorts and tshirt
9:00 am. Big sets hit for the next 45 min
9:45 am. Tiredness from waking up early starting to hit. Must... fight... it...
10:30 am. Stumble out of the water. More waves caught today than I have in a year.
10:32 am. Nap on the beach next to my board till Trevor and Greg come in.
11:00 Go to Pedros Tacos (Heaven)
11:05 am. Potato Tacos
12:00 pm. Get home, eat lunch, recover
2:00 pm. Head out to El Morro to catch the rest of the swell
2:30-5:15 pm. Bodysurf, bodysurf, eat shit while bodysurf, take photos. Barrels.
6:00 pm. Eat dinner, thoughts of going to bed at 8 pm sound great...

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