Instagram: @alex__swanson

Wednesday, November 04, 2009


I took out out my 5'6 Gato Hull (weird shaped egg?) out at Subs, a fun little right at Sunset Cliffs here in San Diego. Now that I know how Hulls are supposed to ride: sitting in the pocket as opposed to hard turns on a shortboard, surfing has become a whole new thing for me. Learning when to "stall" or adjust your weight to get in that sweet spot makes surfing that much more fun. One can argue that you can only get really good on one certain board, but I beg to differ. Switching from my 5'6 Fish, to my 5'6 hull, to my 9'7 log, to even my 5'11 quad, I can see the differences and how each can teach me a little bit about the other. Granted, the control on my quad is considerably more than my single fin, but weight distribution/feet placement is key in both of them.
What I'm trying to say, is that we can take a little bit from different boards, and that we don't have to necessarily limit ourselves to one board. But then again, I'm pretty stubborn, so maybe I'm wrong.

Photo Credit: Erica Burtrum

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

photo credit?