Instagram: @alex__swanson

Monday, November 15, 2010


I've learned a lot from this board...
I kinda took it over when I was 16 or so when Greg and I used to surf Northside HB pier before swim practice.
Boards aren't made like that anymore, and there's something special about that.
I promised myself I would ride it into the ground, until it dies, because I believe that's the way all boards should go, the reason they were shaped.
But it's still kept up; through the nose peeling off, to the constant water leakage.
I am constantly reminded at how smooth and perplexing this board is every time I ride it, but I have a feeling that it's end is drawing near...
Until then I am going to make sure it has a proper last couple of sessions at it's birthplace and eventual burial.

1 comment:

Nick said...

Amazing! You should really keep this board for you kids to play with someday : )