Instagram: @alex__swanson

Tuesday, April 06, 2010


Where is your “allegiance’? Where do you claim your locality? Is it in the green watery reefs of San Diego? The crowded line up of Newport? Or maybe the lined up point breaks of Santa Barbara? Wherever it is, who ever you support, aren’t we all surfing for the same basic reason?
Let’s take a step back to when you first started surfing. All of us had different circumstances, but all of us had the same experience; the exhilaration that nothing else mattered for that oh so brief period of time. Now let’s fast forward to today, where chances are that the break is over crowded, that there are too many kooky characters in the water, or that the locals are too aggressive to enjoy the sets.
Zoom out even further, and think of why you surf. Is it to escape from reality for an hour or two? Is it because you don’t get the same connection like you do with the ocean? Is it safe to say that it is the same general principal to why you paddled out a second time? We are all part of a very big family. We need to cut back on the aggressiveness, and start having pure unadulterated fun again!
Whether you are part of the Frye/Kenvin San Diegans, or the Almond/Dano Newport crowd, or even the Lovelace/Liddle sect from Santa Barbara, we are all out in the water for the same reason; to have fun. So, please, next time you are out in the water, take a breath, and have a spectacular session!


Anonymous said...

comparing lovelace to liddle is an abomination

A. Swanson said...

Nice, way to post that comment anonymously.
Ryan's a great shaper, and his designs keep improving dramatically every month.
If you disagree with my opinions, you don't have to read my blog, much less comment on it.