Monday, August 10, 2009
I met this kid Shane the other week out surfing Doheny. He is quite possibly the nicest, gentlest, most down to earth surfer I have ever met. He exemplifies all that surfing was, is, and should be. He has a carefree attitude, listens to other people before talking himself, and not to mention can noseride better than most people i know. All in all, i can only hope to be the surfer that Shane is.
Posted by A. Swanson at 11:02 PM