Instagram: @alex__swanson

Friday, October 15, 2010

Westmont Internet FAIL

So I promise I was going to put a really cool picture of Erica, but Westmonts internet suuuucks. So I apologize for having to make you wait for a good post. We are working on another quick movie, so I promise we will have that up as soon as possible!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Here we come Greg!

9'6" Tanner

Trevor's 9'6" Tanner is quite easily one of the smoothest boards I've ridden.
From the take off, to the bottom turn, from trimming to turning at the end of the section, it is an incredible all around type of board that I learn more about how it works each time I ride it.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Nihilistic

This is just a forewarning, this post is literally about nothing. Anyways, here are four things that made my week:
1. This is a picture of Ken Suzuki boosting at Oktoberfest this year (I didn't take this photo). This kid is pushing the future of skimming...
2. Kim Jong Ils oldest son, Kim Jong-nam, got in trouble a little while back for trying to sneak into Japan with a fake passport in order to go to Disneyland... He's 31.
3. Erica at age 5 and Pebbles. Just TOO cute!
4. I never get sick of the sunsets here. Ever.



Tuesday, October 12, 2010

G-Money

This was the first time we had surfed this particular beach...Normally it's full of shortboarder, but we scored it with super fun 3-4 sets coming through. Needless to say, Greg was killing it out there.

PS #2

Photoshop

I've been playing with multiple exposures on Photoshop recently... this is a shot that Erica took of me skating a couple of months ago

Monday, October 11, 2010

Weird colors, funky barrels

This was from earlier this year when we went to pick up Gregs Vampire Hull from Ryan. He took us to this "secret spot". It was a really fun session, we hopped in at low tide and it was draining. Later, when the tide filled in, we moved down the point for some really fun longboarding. We didn't calculate that we the walk back would be covered in water, so after a couple of close calls with the surf crashing against the rocks/cliff, we made it back in one piece.
(Greg thought he saw a fish in the wave, and tried to grab it while getting covered up...)

Queen

1. Checking the conditions a couple miles north of Ventura
2. Trevor walking down the Con

Sunday, October 10, 2010

The way things are

I haven't written a long(ish) post in a while, but I figured now was as good of a time as ever.
I learned about two terms in class last week, "Preciosity" and "Mystification"
The first: Using words to make things seem more precious than they really are
The latter: Making something sound intriguing and great through a sense of mystery.
I thought that this translated perfectly into surfing, in that I can be so easily swayed by a brand name.
When I first started surfing, I did it because it was purely fun, the more involved I got over the years, the more I based what I thought on surfing publications and what "big" names told me.
I've learned that it really doesn't matter what household names tell you what's cool, uncool, right, or wrong. It all has to do with YOUR perception.
Basically, it's all about you enjoying something for the sake of enjoying it, not because of what "influential" people tell you.
I want to leave you with one more thing, and that's to enjoy surfing for surfing, to have fun no matter if it's "cool" or not.
Once you learn this, I promise that surfing and life gets really fun :]

Fall Break (For Greg)

Westmont is on Fall Break so Greg decided to head on down to visit all of us down in San Diego! Luckily the weather has been super warm and the surf small and playful. We started off at Cardiff, but when the crowds started filling in, Erica, Greg, and I moved down south to La Jolla. Thanks for visiting us Greg!




Saturday, October 09, 2010

Zoo for two

Erica and I are making use of our San Diego Zoo passes! We've officially made it halfway through the entire zoo, yew! Let me tell you, the elephants are AMAZING. Seriously, really cool.

Max+Wedge= BARRELS

This was taken the second time I swam out at Wedge, the first time it was like 3 ft and really mellow, this time the sets were churning at close to 11 ft. I have never been more scared or appreciative at how powerful the ocean can be at times.

Friday, October 08, 2010

Idea

Erica and I had this idea for Ten Piggies Over T-shirts... this is the first one. Let me know what you think!

Warm waters

Erica and I surfed Cardiff this morning and met a guy by the name of John Haffey, a super nice guy who primarily rides 60s-70s longboards; he was riding a '65 Hobie this morning. Anyways, the water was reeeeally warm (68+ degrees), the surf was playful small, and it was just a great day to get out!
John Haffey